WHY
Old-school grandeur meets hipster cool in the Hungarian capital. The city's belle epoque architecture and opulent coffee houses rival the glories of Prague and Vienna, while the artfully decayed ruin pubs draw partygoers from across the continent.
VISIT
The Danube splits the city into two distinct halves, which were originally separate cities, Buda and Pest. Buda was the headquarters of the Hungarian kings and their successors, the Habsburg Emperors, and the mighty monuments they left behind are well worth a visit. Start with the castle and the Matthias Church with its striking tiled roof, before having an Instagram moment at the best photo stop in town, the Fisherman's Bastion overlooking the river. Finish up with a stroll through the area's winding medieval streets.
EAT
Budapest's dining scene covers all the bases. For fine dining, try Csalogany 26 (csalogany26.hu) – the prix-fixe lunches offer particularly good value – or Borkonyha Winekitchen (borkonyha.hu). Ask about the wine pairings, which go well with the Franco-Hungarian cuisine. The city's most characteristic eateries, however, are its grand cafes, just as opulent as their famous Viennese counterparts. Go the whole hog and treat yourself to a wickedly rich Dobos torte at the gorgeously gilded Gerbeaud or the ornate New York Cafe.
LOOK
Budapest's reputation for romance comes from its elegant streetscapes, but courting couples aren't the only ones who will appreciate its swoon-worthy architecture. Take a wander through Pest's boulevards and alleys and you will find an unexpected gem around every corner, from belle epoque facades to art deco domes. Even the city's Parliament House is exquisite: if you find yourself at Fisherman's Bastion at twilight, you can see it light up like a fairytale palace. Consider treating yourself to a performance at the grand Opera House; it is worth it just to admire its breathtaking interiors.
MUST
Budapest's hot springs power an unrivalled collection of thermal baths, many of which date back to the days when the city was part of the Ottoman Empire. Many locals turn a visit into a day out: watch for the old codgers playing chess on floating boards. Our favourite is Gellert Baths, with its striking art deco interiors.
SLEEP
For travellers keen on exploring the city's more raffish side, Brody House – a converted townhouse where each room features the work of a different artist – features recycled furniture and a distinct creative vibe. If old-school elegance is more your style, we love the Four Seasons Gresham Palace, a gorgeous art nouveau palace right by the Chain Bridge.
TIP
As you are strolling along the Pest riverbank, keep an eye out for a piece of art consisting of scattered shoes. This touching memorial is dedicated to the Jews massacred during World War II.
